General and numbers


	Ferrari 308s are reliable cars with reasonable maintenance costs for this brand if maintenance is performed correctly and according to the period manufacturer's recommendations.
	In all cases, priority should be given to a car with a clear history that can trace its maintenance history for the past 10 years at least. Then, it will be possible to appreciate whether the
	maintenance has been thoroughly done or not because for a car that is now more than 30 years old, some restoration can be expected to have taken place on most of the car unless you
	find a model in an exemplary condition. Such cars do exist but are becoming increasingly scarce, furthermore, paint on fiberglass bodies is reputed not to age very well. If this might be
	hoped to be cosmetically, caution must be exercised for the engine and all undercarriage parts: seals and bushings do not have an infinite life. Life begins at 30? Yes, but not for rubber!
        
If the car still has its warranty book, the chassis’ number is written on the first page; it is also engraved on the rear right side of the engine compartment, on the nameplate at the same
	location and also on the top of the steering wheel column.
        
Engine and chassis numbers are not related. Given today’s communication policy of Ferrari SpA, it is difficult to ascertain if this is the original engine mounted in this frame by the factory
	or not. We must be content with a plausibility... Good or bad!
        
There is also another number generally stamped on the oil cooler bracket on the left of the engine compartment, which indicates the order of assembly, or «Assembly number». It shows
	specifically the car's order in the production line and this position is not strictly linked to its chassis numbers, especially at the time of the fiberglass / steel transition. There are series of
	specific consecutive numbers depending on the markets: Euro RHD, Euro LHD, USA, and even sub sequences like AUS, JAP.
		

		
Identification


1- Nameplate and numbers:
	- Nameplate on the right side of the engine compartment (for European model) and chassis number also casted onto the frame. During april 1976, the «DGM» number appears, casted onto
	the chassis frame.
	At the end of 1979, UK carbureted RHD cars have the «Vehicle Identification Number» (VIN) on a plate but keeps the short version of the number on the column. With injection, all markets see
	this standard adopted. The US GTS carbureted versions have no DGM number casted unlike the GTB.
	The Dino GT4 saw its type change from F106AL to F106AL/A for the European model when it adopts the single distributor running 1976. End-of-production cars also have a
	«Vehicle Identification Number» (VIN) stamped on the chassis.

		
	- Identification on the steering column's plate. With the «two-valve injected model» appears the 17-position «Vehicle Identification Number» (VIN) on this steering column plate.

		
	- Label on the door jamb for standards in Europe (only on carbureted model) and for import safety standards conformity anywhere else with a sticker regarding the fitting, or not, of the catalicyst
	in the USA.

		
	- On US cars, the emissions information plate is riveted in the engine compartment, opposite the one with the chassis number. From «two-valve injected model», this plate change for a label at the
	same place, near the «High Voltage» label.

		
	- On some markets, a plate was affixed in the engine compartment, here in France, and in Germany for the early years.

		
	- On the Australian market version, the importation plate is riveted beside the plate displaying the emissions’ standards. One can also see that on the chassis number plate from UK (RHD), it is
	indicated that the engine is a F106A021 type but this market didn't receive the dry sump engine, so it's a wrong plate.

		
	- For the early 308s imported in Japan, the original chassis number was crossed over, and another number was punched beneath. The engine number was also crossed over.

		
	- «Assembly sequence number», printed on the chassis in several places depending on the model and which is found in elements such as fiberglass doors revetment, console, dashboard...

		
	- «Assembly sequence number» for the GT4 model.

		
	- Engine identification on top of the engine block between the carburettors’ ramps for the dry sump engine (021) or wet sump engine (020) for European models. On later engines, F106B for the
	«two-valve injected» engines, and F105A for the «Quattrovalvole» engines, between the admission ramps. On the «Serie 1» European GT4, the engine is designated F106A000, and then
	becomes F106A020 with the single distributor during 1976.

		
	- For the US market GTBs, GTSs and GT4s, the wet sump engine F106A first does not have an additional figure, then the engine code become F106AE with the introduction of the catalytic device.
	From the «two-valve injected» model, the US engine code is 040. Australian market «Quattrovalvole» cars received a F105A024 specs engine.

		
	- Gearbox identification for the European GTB cars is F106AB, and F106AL for wet sump models (GT4, European GTS and all US market cars).

2- Stickers and labels:

2-1 Tyres pressure:
	- The first 308s received a windshield sticker indicating the recommended tyre pressures, which is 28 p.s.i. for the front and 34 p.s.i. for the rear on Euro cars. It is glued at the lower corner,
	driver’s side, of the windscreen for the «European market» cars, and on the lower glove box lid for the «US market» cars.

		
	- In 1978, the recommended pressure for the front tyres rises to 32,5 p.s.i. for the GTBs and 30 p.s.i. for the GTSs, and remained at 34 p.s.i. at rear for the original 14” tyres with which the cars
	were delivered (Michelin XWX). When the car is fitted with the Good Year NCT 16" option, whatever the version in Europe, the recommended tyre pressure is 32,5 p.s.i. for the fronts and rears,
	and when the Pirelli P7 choice was made, a rear tyres pressure of 35,5 p.s.i. is recommended for speeds above 136 mph. In the middle of 1980, the metric wheel rims become the standard
	factory delivery, the recommended pressure for the front and rear tyres is 33 p.s.i.
   	For the carbureted US versions, recommended front tyre pressure stays at 28 p.s.i. then 27 p.s.i. for the GTBs, but rises to 30 p.s.i. for the GTSs.
	On the US version, the label is under the passenger pocket’s lid for the GTS and under the glove box cover for the GTB.

		
	- For the «two-valve injected» cars, with the 14" tyre, the front tyres recommended pressure is 33 p.s.i. for the GTBs and 30,5 p.s.i. for the GTSs while staying at 35 p.s.i. at rear (for US version
	of GTB, a tyre pressure of 27 p.s.i. is recommended at front). If Michelin TRX has been chosen, whichever the model of the car, recommended tyre pressure is 33 p.s.i. at front and rear.
	On the US market GTSs, the lable is now glued above the driver’s door pocket.

		
	- With the «Quattrovalvole», recommended tyre pressure stays at 33 p.s.i. on fronts and rears, whatever the destination market or the tyre (Michelin TRX or Good Year NCT 16"). A pressure of
	35.5 p.s.i. on rears is still recommended for speeds above 136 mph with the Pirelli P7. Stickers are glued on the lower corner, driver’s side, of the windscreen for Euro cars.
	On the US market of the «Quattrovalvole», the label for the GTSs goes behind the passenger sun visor, the one for the GTBs stays inside the glovebox.

		
	- On the «Serie 1» GT4s, the tyre pressure sticker is glued inside the glove box; for the «Serie 2» cars, it is glued on the lower corner, driver’s side, of the windscreen.

2-2 Emission standards:
	- US market cars have on their quarter window driver' side, a conformity label with California’s emission standards. From 1977, it is located on the bottom left corner of the windscreen,
	those labels are different from year to year.

2-3 Paint code labels:
	- The body paint colour labels appeared during the «vetroresina»’s (=«glass cars») production run. These can be found under the engine hood, at its middle, on the flat cross section of the
	reinforcement bars joint. The paint manufacturer was Glidden Salchi at this time. The first one had the paint reference number punched on the line specified for «Tipo/Type».

		
	- Later, the inscription was displayed in a different way: the colour name was manually engraved on the «Tipo/Type» line, and the code for the paint on the «number» («n°») line.
	Still later, after the «steel body» production began, the manually engraved colour’s name disappears, leaving only the paint code on the number («n°») line.

		
	- At the end of 1977, after the sale of Salchi by Glidden, the manually engraved reference on the number («n°») line was still to be found there, but the label itself on the sticker is now only
	«Salchi». Later on came a different  variant of the «Salchi» sticker, which has only the paint reference from this brand’s new range of colour references on a single line, stating
	«this car has been painted in the colour…».

		
	- During the 1980 production, a different engine hood appeared, with a drain hole right at the middle of the reinforcement bars’ joint, so the sticker has to be glued slightly below, partly on the front
	reinforcement plate for the rear grill; however, on some cars, the label still can be found at its former place, meaning that it covers the new drain hole, which then does not have a cap.

		
	- Starting from the end of 1980, the provider of paints changed to Glasurit, and the paint stickers, now having a printed paint reference, are glued under the right rear edge of the engine hood
	(which becomes high rear edge when the engine hood is open).

		
	- On the GT4, the paint reference label is under the rear trunk lid. Note that this is sometimes in the open air or at the level of the seal support so it deteriorates quite quickly and often it is
	no longer in place.

Known issues of the Ferrari 308


	Engine:

	The engine is generally reliable when proper maintenance can be ascertained. It is customary to replace the timing belts and tensioner bearings according to the manufacturer's
	recommendations. It is a simple and inexpensive operation (it is not necessary to remove the engine for this on this model) compared to the damage that may occur should they break.
	Two-valve engines have exhaust valves filled with sodium to dissipate heat. As they  age, we read that they can sometimes get brittle, but it seems very rare and it is more about US version
	using catalytic converters. Valve guides wear may occur sometime; this seems due to unleaded gasoline use resulting in excessive oil use. This is a strong engine the difference between
	the least powerful of the 308 and 328 is only 25%, therefore the engine has development potential. The most common change in search for more power is to increase capacity to 3.4 litre,
	reworking bore and stroke, with new pistons and a 360 crank, with more specific camshafts.
	In conclusion, when researching a future car, it is advised to look for an engine that has been regularly run (long immobilization can be very expensive) and has been adequately maintained.
        
	Frame:
        
	The carrier trellis, made up of large tubes is very strong and resists corrosion. A review on a lift will allow detection of major repairs consecutive to an accident.
	Anyway, during the road test, you have to be careful (and suspicious!) of any path deviation. Many first generation models were «upgraded» with 16" wheels instead of their regular 14”
	equipment. Aesthetically, it's not bad but finding a set of 14" wheels is not simple, and in any case expensive.
        
	Ignition:
        
	The first cars have points ignition and electronic ignition appeared during 1977.
        
	Clutch:
        
	Before the change of the clutch mechanism in 1980, the clutch is reputed to be very stiff and tiring. However, it is relatively robust and it is not uncommon to do 30,000 Miles before
	replacement.
        
	Transmission:
        
	The gearbox is deemed to be reluctant to accept the 2nd gear when cold. There is no known real improvement available other than using a more suitable oil. The «o» ring seal on the shift 
	shaft leak over time and the engine oil can flow into the gearbox. This causes an oil quantity above the recommended level which is easy to identify. Better rings can then be mounted
	to prevent new problem.
        
	Cooling:
        
	Cooling may seem inadequate, but  problems often result from poor maintenance. Especially on low-mileage cars,  pipes had ample time for clogging. Replacement costs little (piping by the
	meter, with the exception of a right angle at the radiator entrance). Check the radiator core, fans, thermostat, thermal switch and bleed the circuit. With the engine in the rear and
	radiator in the front, and the difference in  height minimal, bleeding is not easy: the system must be bleeded at both ends. And this is not possible on the first engines that have no bleed
	valve on the thermostat. The water pump should be monitored regularly; it is fragile on these models.
        
	Air Conditioning:
        
	Air Conditioning is designed for Freon (R-12) which is no longer available, but some owners convert to R134a. This is a less efficient fluid, but the charge is cheaper. Substittution by a
	Sanden compressor, more effective than the original Aspera is possible (some say the Aspera is incompatible with the R134).
        
	Suspension:
        
	Original rubber suspension bushings and dampers must be changed every 50 000km. Check if cracked or chipped. This is a very common problem.
        
        Body:
        
	The steel on the carbed 308 was not rust-proofed therefore monitor the apparition of rust at the bottom of the doors (lower external and internal part at the joint), on the lower body notably
	behind the wheel arches. The doors can also rust inside (including on the fiberglass cars whose inner door frame is made of steel) due to a sealing of the window not very tight and water may
	collect in the bottom of the door if the drain holes are blocked. At the bottom of the windshield where water stagnates, at the junction of the sail panel and the rear wing, under the rear licence
	plate and along the beltline gutter. Since 1981, the sheets are galvanized and treatment improves further in 1984. Roof Seals on GTS.
        
        Electricity:
        
	There, the picture is less funny, especially on carbureted cars! It's Italian, old time... that said, although annoying, these problems are usually not very expensive in their consequences
	(many peripheral elements come from the Fiat organ bank !). Note mainly (but small «fantasies» are innumerable): the power windows have  motors that are not powerful enough and mounted
	with cables and pulleys. It is necessary to clean the old grease, often hardened with time, with a solvent, and replace it with lithium grease. We see the same problem with the engine wiper.
	Some replace fuse boxes with aftermarket parts that have a reputation of giving the system more performance. The advantage is that this is completely reversible.
	The lighting is «confidential». Should you really need at night, a small change with introduction of relays and taking the power more directly from the battery greatly improves things.
	In addition, this reduces the wear on the stalk which in this case, only serves to control the relay. Here too, the operation is completely reversible.
        
	Interior and tools:
        
	The interior materials are generally of average quality and finish. Imitation leather dashboard is often a bit « cooked » by the heat in the cabin in the summer and often has cracks (or more).
	Make sure the car is complete with all its period accessories, spare wheel (« pancake » spare wheel badged « Dino » on European 308, standard full size wheel on exports), jack (3 parts),
	tool kit (including 14mm spark plug tool), gauges, lights, emergency lamp, emergency crank windows, owner’s pouch with manuals. For GTS, roof cover. Check the long zip on the vinyl boot
	cover that protects luggage and the one on the spare wheel cover.
		

		
Specific points to watch the Ferrari 308 GT4


	Some parts have become very hard to find such as lights, metal bands around the bumpers, the polyester molding that supports the fiber shroud under the bonnet which supports the spare wheel.
	Do prefer a car with intact door panels, as these were often cut to put loudspeakers.

        
Customers changes on Ferrari 308


	- Aftermarket fusebox.
	- 328 water pump.
	- Aluminum toothed wheel for timing belts.
	- Exhaust, headers (originally stainless steel) and silencer (originally stainless steel).
	- 16" wheel for the carbureted 308.
	- Racing brakes and calipers (only for 16" wheels).
	- Electronic injection changed to MSD or Electromotive type.
	- Larger diameter rear anti-roll bar.
	- Changing the heater fans from the back of the radiator.
	- Windows accelerators.
	- Transparent roof for GTS called Saratoga Top.

        
Checklist for your visit


	Checking the numbers
    
	- Chassis number (is the one on the right rear engine strut identical to the one on the steering column plate?):
	- Engine number:
	- Paint colour label in the middle of the rear hood for carburetors car, near licence plate light for later 308:
        
	Checking the dates
        
	- Last belt replacement (particularly timing belts):
	- Last oil replacement, spark plugs change:
	- Geometry adjustment:
	- Full service history, invoices:
	- Consistency between warranty card/ maintenance bills / Odometer:
        
	Interior control
        
	- Headliner top:
	- Imitation leather of the dashboard:
	- Floor Mats and rear bulkhead (lifting carpets):
	- Seats:
	- Trunk and spare tire (early models) cover zips:
	- Rubber on doors and windows (supple and not damaged?):
	- Comprehensive test of all electrics (especially power windows and headlights pods):
	- Test the air conditioning:
	- Check the fuse table:
	- Check seat belts:
	- Antenna on the rear right fender and pre radio fittings:
	- Spare wheel:
	- Tools within the two kits:
	- Tool roll: carburetor key, set of 8 wrenches (6 to 22) pliers (180 mm), screwdriver (120 mm), screwdriver (150 mm), Phillips screwdriver (4 mm) Phillips screwdriver (5.9 mm),
	spark plugs wrench:
	- Jack bag: Yellow jack parallelogram jack, alternator belt, compressor belt AC, warning triangle, set of fuses, set of light bulbs, 2 spark plugs:
	- Emergency crank (windows):
	- Emergency light:
	- Key locking doors:
	- Opening of the hoods:
	- Shock traces inside the front hood:
	- Oil in Water:
	- Water in oil:
        
	Control from outside
        
	- Alignment of the doors:
	- Check the wear on door hinges, their frictionless operation:
	- Verification of the opening of front and rear hood. Ensure that the main system and the backup work both (each hood has a backup loop / handle in case the main cable breaks; these loops
	are under the left edge of the dashboard for the front hood  and behind the upper part of the driver's seat belt for the rear one):
	- Inspection of the body in search of rust bubbles (doors, rocker panels, waistline, under the seal of the windshield, around the front hood where aluminum is mounted on a steel frame, even on
	the fiberglass cars):
	- Is the car still in original paint or not:
	- Wheels: check the condition of the rims, scratches, bumps, etc… as some are hard to find and therefore expensive:
	- Wheel bolts, look carefully if they are bitten by rust, or if the chromium is not chipped; if it is, it will be changed, which means finding a new set (expensive, especially as original parts) or
	used (rare) or have them re-chromed:
	- Tires (check symmetrical wear?):
	- Scratch on the windows:
	- Inspection of rubber:
	- Badges:
        
	Control the underside
        
	- Signs of re-painting, beware of a chassis that has been supposedly treated and protected, it can hide a major repair:
	- Check corrosion on the door sills and wheel arches:
	- Drips of oil, water, brake fluid (check calipers), oil loss from the shock absorbers:
	- Control the front and rear “cradles” of the chassis: Accident symptoms: welding of tubes:
	- Shock absorbers + running gear: rubber seals control of the ball joints / joints:
	- Play in the wheels:
	- Brake discs condition:
	- Exhaust:
	- Water hoses:
	- Leaks of the water pump:
        
	Checking the engine bay
        
	- State of all hoses:
	- Check the play and the condition of belts:
	- Check for signs of leaks on the water box:
	- Check for leaks on the radiator (front hood):
	- Engine cleanliness, especially between the carburetors ramps:
        
	Driving
        
	- Before starting, check that the oil lamp lights at starting (on models that have one) and control of the generator:
	- Can all the gears be easily engaged without hearing crunches:
	- Start, cut and easy re-start:
	- Test the parking brake (usually not very effective):
	- Operation of the fuel gauge:
	- Smoke at startup:
	- Hot Smoke:
	- Idling stability:
	- Do brake and clutch pedals after being depressed  return to their level before release:
	- Second gear synchro usually reluctant, especially in the cold:
	- Course and noise of the clutch:
	- Does the car dart left or right spontaneously:
	- Braking behavior:
	- Make two loops 360° on each side and pay attention to any unusual noises:
	- Driving along a wall, note the unusual noises:
	- Steering play (dead center?):
	- At a 80 MpH speed, the engine has to run without a hitch:
	- Check noise and vibration when freewheeling:
	- Oil pressure >= 6 bar at 5000 rpm:
	- White smoke when accelerating (a little brown smoke is normal):
	- Operation of fans (starting and shutdown):
	- Check exhaust smell, oil smell or coolant smell after driving: